Something missing under there, just get to it!

So, after a lot of sheetmetal work, paint and stickers its time to focus fully on the chassis. I have already made up the subframes with its modifications, strengthening and such, but they have not been painted yet. This is just for trial mount and having the chanse to modify them if needed. But now the body is painted and I am shure there will not be anymore modifications to it.

I start making the rear arms, on the TWR they where fabricated from sheetmetal for weight, strenght and adjustments reasons. So I drwa p a set from pictures I have seen and also some carefully measurements and calculations I have done. They are being laser cut from Docool 800 witch is superstrong.

I tigweld them with a special filler witch is aproved for Docool 800. I have implemented threaded bosses inside them for the rod ends and the special adjusting sleewed to go into. I can adjust the rod ends without rotating them or taking them out, special patent..

And again, ofcorse, trial fit before paint..

Now its time to make the shockabsorbers. I use Bilstein like the original car, non adjustable as Gr.A spesifies. Luckily I was able to get the damper setting recipe from an old technician at Bilstein Germany some years ago. I use this as a start and then start testing to get it right. I have a shock dyno witch is absolytley nessesary to know what yo are doing when building shocks.

Then the rear hubs. I modify it slightly to ge the lug mount caliper offset right and I shim the bearings to a good race clerance. Then high temp bearing grease.

Now put it together and mount the complete rear suspension.

I make up new rods for the suspension like the Gr.A cars had.

Just like this, superstrong and fully adjustable. I have a new ratio diff ratio in there and a good LSD (not powerlock) with the correct preload and ramp angles. This will be great. AP racing disc’s arrive in a week.

Now front suspension. I make up a new lower spring seat for height adjusments and also the race springs has smaller diameter and lengdt than the original springs. To be able to design this correct I have been many times to UK and looked at the original car and also looking in books, old magasines and pictures of it. I feel i am pretty spot on and I even got the spring rates and damper settings correct here.

Lower arms gwet bronze bearings and upper arms are just having their rubber removed.

Custom made AP racing endurance calipers are adjusted for fitment and the steering arms are being bent for new race geometry.

An original steering arm will not fit with these calippers
343x36mm front disc

Now brake discks are in place and i am ready to get some wheels on.

This better not be wrong… when ordering custom made wheels.

https://www.facebook.com/twrtribute/videos/215571376171584/

The wheels arrive and it looks just right, dont you think?

Now I can adjust the steering rack posiotion to get zero bump steer. The steering rack has also got another ratio with a bigger pinion gear inside. Now I can move it around and get it into daylight for the first time.

  1. Guys…the attention to detail is remarkable and inspiring.Im building a XJS race car on a shoestring budget and truly appreciate the immensity of research into the task like this. You are true craftsmen and I enjoy following your build…
    Clinton Laurens
    LAUDE CLASSIC CARS
    Capetown
    South Africa

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